What is Fusarium?

Fusarium species are ubiquitous and may be found in the soil, air and on plants. Fusarium species can cause mycotoxicosis in humans following ingestion of food that has been colonized by the fungal organism. In humans, Fusarium species can also cause disease that is localized, focally invasive or disseminated. The pathogen generally affects immunocompromised individuals with infection of immunocompetent persons being rarely reported. Localized infection includes septic arthritis, endophthalmitis, osteomyelitis, cystitis and brain abscess. In these situations relatively good response may be expected following appropriate surgery and oral antifungal therapy. Disseminated infection occurs when two or more noncontiguous sites are involved. Over eighty cases have been reported, many of which had a hematologic malignancy including neutropenia. The species most commonly involved include Fusarium solani, Fusarium oxysporum, and Fusarium moniliforme (also termed F. verticillioides). The diagnosis of Fusarium infection may be made on histopathology, gram stain, mycology, blood culture, or serology. Portals of entry of disseminated infection include the respiratory tract, the gastrointestinal tract, and cutaneous sites.

The skin can be an important and an early clue to diagnosis since cutaneous lesions may be observed at an early stage of the disease and in about seventy-five cases of disseminated Fusarium infection. Typical skin lesions may be painful red or violaceous nodules, the center of which often becomes ulcerated and covered by a black eschar. The multiple necrotizing lesions are often observed on the trunk and the extremities. Onychomycosis most commonly due to F. oxysporum or F. solani has been reported. The onychomycosis may be of several types: distal and lateral subungual (DLSO), white superficial (WSO), and proximal subungual (PSO). In proximal subungual onychomycosis there may be associated leukonychia and/or periungual inflammation. Patients with Fusarium onychomycosis have been cured following therapy with itraconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox olamine lacquer, or topical antifungal agent. In other instances nail avulsion plus antifungal therapy has been successful. In patients with hematologic malignancy or bone marrow transplant, who may experience prolonged or severe neutropenia during the course of therapy, the skin and nails should be carefully examined and consideration given to treating potential infection sites that may serve as portals for systemic dissemination. When disseminated Fusarium infection is present therapy with antifungal agents has generally been disappointing with the chances of a successful resolution being enhanced if the neutropenia can be corrected in a timely manner.

Condensation on Duct Work

Condensation occurs when air is cooled below its dew point temperature. The study of air containing moisture (or plain old air as we know it) is called psychrometrics (pronounced si-crow-met-ricks), and deals with the relationships between temperature, relative humidity, absolute humidity, dew point and several other properties of the air/moisture mixture. A basic psychrometric relationship is that air can only hold so much moisture at a certain temperature. When the air is full of moisture, the relative humidity is 100%. When the air contains half as much moisture as is can at a temperature, the air is at 50% relative humidity. The next relationship is that if you cool the air, the relative humidity increases. (Cool air can’t hold as much moisture as warm air) At some point, the air becomes saturated. Cooling it any further causes condensation. This is the dew point.

So how does this relate to sweating ducts? Air conditioners make air cold. The cold air is forced through ducts. As a result, the outside surface of the ducts is cooled. If the air outside the ducts is humid enough, condensation will form on the ducts. The colder the air in the ducts and the more humid the air around the ducts, the more chance of forming condensation. Note that sweating ducts has nothing to do with moisture in the air inside the ducts. Solutions to sweating ducts involve 1) warming the surface, and 2) drying the air around the ducts. Insulation is added to the exterior of ducts to help warm the duct surface. The insulation should be enclosed in a vapor barrier to keep moisture from moving through the insulation itself. Joints in the ducts, insulation and vapor barrier should be sealed. The insulation and vapor barrier should extend completely to the registers, or condensation can form on the exposed ends.

If the ducts are in a crawlspace, a complete vapor barrier on the soil is an essential first step. Increasing crawlspace ventilation may help in some parts of the country, but be careful because increasing ventilation in other areas can actually increase the condensation. In basements and crawlspaces, sometimes adding a dehumidifier is necessary. Most duct condensation issues I have seen are the result of problems with duct insulation. In some cases, fixing the insulation solves the problem. Adding insulation typically does not solve the problem. In cases where the insulation is in good shape, crawlspaces and basements have been wet, or ducts have been pressed together.

When is the air conditioner at fault? Some newer air conditioning systems and controls actually make the air inside the ducts colder. This is an attempt by the manufacturer to help make the air in the house dryer, but often causes more condensation on the outside of ducts. Dirty filters can restrict air flow through the system, resulting in colder air. This is the easiest one to deal with: keep your filters clean. Otherwise, make sure the duct insulation and vapor barrier are continuous, contiguous and complete. And keep the air around ducts dry by covering exposed soil in crawlspaces, keeping ducts apart, and reducing other moisture sources in the air as much as possible.

How to Check For Water Damage

Your home protects you from the elements, but heavy rains can weaken that protection. With a little maintenance and a lot of vigilance, it’s not hard to stay safe and dry. Spring rainstorms are a fact of life in many areas of the country, and they help keep things green, even if they keep you inside. But when they get heavy, it’s time to start thinking about the potential impact all that water has on your home. The first step is finding and fixing any immediate problems as soon as it’s safe to do so. Then, you’ll want to take measures to prevent those problems from happening during the next downpour!

Where is all that rain going?

Your roof and gutters form a key line of defense for your home – and in a storm, they’re vulnerable, because so many things can damage them. Trees, hail, and other objects can create weaknesses that might lead to leaks in your roof, so check for missing shingles and other issues. And keep your gutters clear so all that water drains properly.

Are you checking everywhere?

Water dripping from the ceiling is hard to miss. Water in your crawl space, however, can easily go undetected because hardly anyone ever checks there. Don’t forget to look down there after a storm (or have a professional do it) to make sure everything is nice and dry. If you do see moisture, you’ll want to get it out with a sump pump as soon as possible.

And don’t just look up – another place to check is your home’s exterior, whether it’s siding, brick, or another material. Weak spots can be hard to see, so look at various times of the day in different lighting conditions. Of course, you’ll want to make sure your doors and windows are properly sealed to keep the elements out, too.

What about around your property?

Storm water has to go somewhere, and if your property doesn’t drain well, or if runoff goes toward your foundation, you could have problems. So watch for patterns, and grade property so it drains away from your home if possible. Always be wary of hillsides and tilting trees after heavy storms, because the land might not be stable. And don’t forget to keep storm drains clear of leaves and other debris. This can prevent flooding both on the streets and your own property.

What should you do during the storm?

During powerful storms, stay inside. This is not the time to check your roof, your exterior, or your property unless there’s an emergency and you know it’s safe to go out. Monitor your interior, making sure no water is getting in. If it is, do what you can to alleviate the situation in the moment, even if it means just placing something under a leak to collect the water. For more serious problems, though, remember that safety is the most important thing. If your basement is flooding, for example, don’t go down there – you could be trapped and even drown.  And if electric lines are hot and compromised, it could lead to serious injuries.  

If water damage should occur in your home, give us a call today and our experienced and trained technicians will bring your home back to pre-loss conditions safely and quickly. You can also visit our site at WeAreMSI.com